Updated: May 27, 2021
BEWARE! Should only be performed by a trusted professional
First things first, what is Microneedling?
Microneedling is a collagen induction therapy treatment that utilizes multiple fine needles to puncture the skin. As we go along the skin with the needles, we are causing controlled trauma to the skin, which activates the skin's natural healing process.
Sounds scary, right? There is actually very minimal pain and downtime associated with a microneedling treatment, and the results are so worth it!
Once the skin begins to heal it produces collagen (an essential protein), giving you a more youthful complexion, with tighter skin and an even skin tone and texture.
Say goodbye to the hyperpigmentation, acne scars, and fine lines/wrinkles once and for all!
For microneedling to be done safely, the needles being used must be medical-grade needles.
Well duh? Right?
Unfortunately, there are many faulty needles out there being sold at a much cheaper price, which can be detrimental to the health of your skin. These needles have a dull tip, that causes tearing on the skin, as opposed to safe micro-injuries.
This can cause long-term damage to your skin, even if it is not visible right away.
The motor speed of your microneedling pen is one of the most important aspects of microneedling.
eDermaStamp® by Dermaroller®, a Health Canada approved system, currently has the fastest motor on the market at 150
strokes per second. This allows the pen to safely glide over the skin without scratching or tearing the skin.
Many microneedling systems operate at a slower insertion rate and can cause micro-tears in the tissue as the tip moves across the face. This can lead to an increased risk of infection and increased epidermal damage (no thanks!).
Battery-Powered vs Electric
Microneedling systems can either be wireless or plug into the wall. Both are effective, although low-quality machines that run on a battery can actually cause damage to the skin once the battery begins to die.
The microneedling device should be giving you consistency- as an electric device, it outputs consistent power leading to consistent performance.
For a battery-dependent system, the strokes will begin slowing down once the battery starts to wear out, leading to unwanted micro-tears and scratching of the skin. This is when you can find the machine tugging and ripping the skin, causing unhealthy damage.
This is not to say that all wireless microneedling systems are bad, but you can find a big difference in battery life and performance when comparing a $120 pen from Amazon, as opposed to an expensive device sold only to professionals.
Many faulty devices on the market give misleading information about needle count. Advertising “the most needles”, assuming this maximizes performance, meanwhile too many needles compromise the safety and comfort of the treatment.
When there are too many needles, it will require dangerous amounts of pressure to penetrate the skin to the appropriate depth.
The eDermaStamp® by Dermaroller® utilizes 6 needles per cartridge, to maximize effectiveness, safety, and comfort.
Many pens offer a 12-needle cartridge, which is something I can bear; but surprisingly enough, I have come across pens with 20-36 needles, which is CRAZY! A little goes a long way.
The more needles
The more traumatic
The more harmful
Microneedling At Home
Avoid purchasing an at-home microneedling pen to perform on yourself. This is a very complex treatment, that involves proper sterilizing and safe products.
It is also crucial to be using a variety of needle lengths throughout different areas of the skin, depending on the thickness of each area. A lot of damage can be caused to the skin, and can even lead to infection if not done properly.
This treatment should only be completed by a licensed medical esthetician, dermatologist, or any other trained professional.
I know what you’re thinking… you can just google microneedling protocols and do it safely, on yourself in the comfort of your own home.
Any company selling microneedling systems to consumers without a license, credentials, account or training, means that they are most likely selling a flawed system.
Even by doing everything as you should (i.e. sterilizing, using proper needle depths), the needles and the pens themselves are not made to the standard of safe microneedling.
Fortunately, derma rollers were created as an alternative, to give clients/consumers the ability to perform microneedling from home; a much safer method.
While Derma rollers are great tools for home care, you must ensure that, once again, you are doing your research.
1. The needles must be medical-grade needles.
2. They should not penetrate too deep into the skin.
0.2mm is more than enough for home care.
3. Due to the rolling nature of derma rollers, a high needle count is needed to cover the entire surface of the roller – but once again, nothing too crazy; 150-200 needles is more than enough.
You may come across some derma rollers advertising a needle count as high as 540+ needles. This will require 2-3 times more pressure to work effectively, which is more painful and harmful to the skin!
If you have any questions, feel free to shoot me a DM on Instagram or email!